tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-62653566409721100992024-03-13T09:56:30.847+05:30India-a-h !not just the Taj Mahal ...Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.comBlogger13125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-58008554679046910162015-11-30T13:38:00.000+05:302015-12-03T13:34:20.167+05:30Dhaaba stopovers <br />
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A road trip in India, especially in the northern states, comes with the mandatory pit-stops. Halting at a '<i>dhaaba</i>' to stretch one's legs and to feast on robust local fare is a given. <br />
Originally meant to cater to the truck-drivers who ply on these highways, <i>dhaaba</i>s are almost synonymous with basic, plain local food but served hot and minus frills. Homely and wholesome and most serve food that is just too delicious to be restricted to only truck-drivers. So every traveller has his own list of must-stop <i>dhaabas</i> that he swears by<i>.</i> <br />
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Driving from Delhi to Chandigarh, we were told we just had to stop for a bite at Pahalwan Dhaba at Murthal. So we did. And wolfed down plate after plate of steaming hot rotis and parathas with soft, creamy white butter (it has to be <i>white</i> butter. That too is mandatory, I'm told ) <br />
Do you blame us? It was just SO good!<br />
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The paneer paranthes disappeared with a smear of hot, melting butter and scoop of channa slathered in a thick masala gravy.<br />
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On the way in, heaped-up trayloads of fried mouthfuls are displayed. Golden yellow with lashings of turmeric and soaked in batter then deep-fried to what looked like a junk-foodie's version of heaven. Me, I saw the pista green walls behind the rich yellow and smiled into my camera.<br />
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The jalebis need no recommendation, though. There's something about a jalebi that still glistens in its syrupy juice that can activate all the tastebuds south of the Himalayas (and that's not counting the ones from other directions too, I'm sure).<br />
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Not all dhaabas are as organised or clean as this. In fact, compared to most of the other dhaabas we passed or stopped at, this one was almost a 5-star version!<br />
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It even had a satellite of stalls and hawkers, including a guy selling <i>ber </i>(Indian Jujube). I was fascinated by his re-purposed tyre-tray. Seeing my fascination, he offered me a <i>ber</i> but I was too famished to settle for <i>ber </i>when I could have paranthe just a couple of steps away.<br />
In hindsight, I know I should have bought some <i>ber</i> too!<br />
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<br />Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-66855880462864333092013-07-06T21:30:00.001+05:302013-07-07T19:42:25.276+05:30Golden Temple by night<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Golden Temple at Amritsar</td></tr>
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It had to be fate that we reached Amritsar on Baisakhi. It was not a trip which I had intended to make. Nor was it a site I would have ordinarily chosen to visit.<br />
I'm usually not overly keen on visiting prominent religious sites, mainly because they are almost always over-crowded to the point of suffocation. And mobs of pilgrims, excited about reaching their longed-for destination and the inevitable hordes of hawkers belligerently pushing their wares, leave me half-panicked and hunting for the nearest exit (yes, the term 'claustrophobic' does pop up in my mind).<br />
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But reach there we did, late at night and famished and tired after a long drive from Chandigarh. After trawling the streets for the best <i>dhaaba</i>s (the people of Punjab are famed for their love of good food, so it stood to reason that we'd find some of the best eateries here. And we wanted authentic Punjabi fare, so a <i>dhaaba</i> it had to be! ), we suddenly found ourselves in the vicinity of the Golden Temple. We were scheduled to visit the next day, with a proper guide escorting us (and equally important, with enough light to click all the pictures we wanted). It was close to midnight but it was just too tempting to resist. Just a quick look, we promised ourselves. Here we had the holiest of holies of the Sikh religion and we just had to answer the call. Even though none of us in our group of 10 were Sikhs.<br />
There is something very powerful about the atmosphere here. It is almost magnetic!<br />
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The Harmandir Sahib or the <a href="http://www.sgpc.net/golden-temple/index.asp">Golden Temple</a> is one of the most imposing sacred sites I've seen, yet it is surrounded by a quiet dignity. It is a juxtaposition of conflicting images. The serene simplicity of the structures around it and the extremely grand heart of it all. The tranquilty of the Harmandir Sahib in the middle of the Sarovar (or the sacred pool), is magnified by its softly gleaming reflection.<br />
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But first, to enter the Temple complex you have to cover your head and remove footwear. If you're an impromptu visitor as I was, don't worry. You'll get scarves for your head near the entrance and a cloak room that will store your shoes too till you leave.<br />
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I had no idea what to expect really. Apart from the grandeur of the Golden Temple and the legendary 'Guru ka langar' (the incredible community kitchen which feeds all visitors to the Temple around the clock), I didn't really know much about it. Which is how I like it ... minus all the preconceived ideas, prejudices or biases.<br />
But, if you'd like more information, this is where those links at the end of the post will come in handy.<br />
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These pictures will share some of what I saw. It's not very comprehensive nor are some of the pictures as clear as I would like (I was using a point-and-shoot at night ) but they're the best I have to go with right now.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The main entrance to the Temple complex</td></tr>
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The main entrance is imposing enough and gives no hint of the Golden Temple within.<br />
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These guards at the entrance were so tall! Quite daunting to look at, but they were nice enough to pose for a photo when a visitor asked them (why didn't I do that?!).<br />
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So many people. All awake at midnight (quite a few children too), answering the call of their faith. Strangely enough, there was hardly any noise or bustle that one would ordinarily associate with such a large gathering. Instead there is a quietness that is very soothing. Almost a meditative silence of being.<br />
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A whole flight of steps leads you down to the circumambulatory path around the holy tank.The water (referred to as 'Amrit', meaning 'nectar'. Amritsar or Amrit Sarovar is a reference to this holy tank of nectar ) is almost alive with the golden reflection of the Harmandir Sahib. <br />
If anything, it is rendered even more grand by the simplicity and purity of the white structures and white marble path around the tank. But, see for yourself ...<br />
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And, around the tank, there were huge rolls of matting. I was told that the daily cleaning was being done by the 'sevadars' or the devout who had volunteered to work as a mark of their faith. I found that so heart-warming! There were no loud protestations of faith, but a quiet getting-on with whatever work needed to be done, no matter how menial.<br />
I can't think of anything more grace-filled than that.<br />
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Perhaps certain things are meant to be. Perhaps a certain grace moves the universe so that everything works out in the best possible way.<br />
I, for one, think the universe definitely swung me a huge favour when I got to experience the wonder of the Golden Temple by night. <br />
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Links:<br />
<a href="http://www.goldentempleamritsar.org/map%20of%20golden%20temple%20amritsar,%20amritsar%20travel%20guide.pdf">Guide map of Sri Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple)</a><br />
<a href="http://www.allaboutsikhs.com/harmandir-sahib/art-and-architecture-of-harimandir-sahib-the-golden-temple">Art and architecture of the Golden Temple</a><br />
<a href="http://www.sgpc.net/golden-temple/index.asp">Golden Temple</a><br />
<a href="http://www.allaboutsikhs.com/harmandir-sahib/installation-of-holy-granth-at-harimandir">The Granth Sahib</a><br />
<a href="https://sreenionroad.wordpress.com/2012/07/06/jo-bole-so-nihal-sat-sri-akal-the-harmandir-sahib-golden-temple-amritsar/">Blog-post </a><br />
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<br />Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-17396477916646423462010-04-23T14:16:00.004+05:302010-05-05T22:31:22.930+05:30Mumbai : The colours of Summer<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FA0uKfrcI/AAAAAAAACPk/v2wix-ZzBUY/s1600/IMG_4373+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 700px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 500px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463219097466547650" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FA0uKfrcI/AAAAAAAACPk/v2wix-ZzBUY/s400/IMG_4373+copy.jpg" /></a> Nothing ... absolutely nothing ... paints the vibrant colours of Summer in Mumbai even a fraction as much as ... <em>gola</em>s!<br />Hard-packed globes of crushed ice wrapped around a stick, lollipop-style. But it doesn't stop there .... dipped in a glass of flavoured sweet syrup spiced with rather mysterious masalas, it transforms into the stuff of dreams. Dreams of frozen icy cool on a miserably boiling hot day. Of sticky, sugary flavours to be slurped up, tantalising the tastebuds and teasing the memory cells. <p></p><p>And the colours! Lurid, ravishing, vibrant ... golden mango, explosive orange, sunny pineapple, grape, <em>kaalakhatta</em>.... definitely more flavours than fruit trees could dream up .</p><p>But it is not for the squeamish or the faint-hearted. Being a transplant to Mumbai, I always found the rather dubious antecedents of the <em>gola</em> a bit of a restraint every time I was tempted to try one.<br /><br /></p><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FE1XG2kuI/AAAAAAAACP0/BH3d8sBk49M/s1600/IMG_4367+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 700px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 500px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463223506503635682" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FE1XG2kuI/AAAAAAAACP0/BH3d8sBk49M/s400/IMG_4367+copy.jpg" /></a> I found a long line of <em>gola-wallahs</em> busy at work on their carts on Marve Beach the other night. Don't you just love the way those bottles glow like jewels in the warm light of the lanterns ?<br />The colours fascinated, the icy coolness lured, but I resisted its charms. My Mumbai-bred husband shook his head at my stubborness and proceeded to gorge on frozen <em>gola</em>s, leaving me melting in the summer heat.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FC2GfRYwI/AAAAAAAACPs/Pqe5mn3PM4E/s1600/IMG_4375+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 700px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 500px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463221320199267074" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FC2GfRYwI/AAAAAAAACPs/Pqe5mn3PM4E/s400/IMG_4375+copy.jpg" /></a> Amazing how such a rickety contraption as a hand-cart, a manual ice-crusher and a super-model line-up of syrups and spices can transform into a superhero for so many Mumbai folk!<br /><br />Then the other day we were driving down Linking Road, sweltering in the blistering heat with the sun snickering at the a.c. which was on full blast but might as well have not been functioning for all the good it did.<br />Many sweaty miserable minutes later,my husband stopped at an all-too familiar stall. And this one time, I was tempted once too often. And I gave in!<br /><br />What can I say? It was like the monsoons had come early... in a sweet orangey flavour speckled with rock salt and <em>chaat</em> masala!<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FYPM2oZmI/AAAAAAAACQE/Jp4rvvQUzGI/s1600/IMG_4548+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 336px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463244841148769890" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9FYPM2oZmI/AAAAAAAACQE/Jp4rvvQUzGI/s400/IMG_4548+copy.jpg" /></a><br />(<span style="font-size:85%;"><em>At the time of publishing, the writer is still alive and not suffering any ill-effects after having eaten a </em>gola<em>. But the writer refuses to accept any responsibility for the same if the reader is tempted to have one too</em></span><em> ;</em>D )Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com33tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-38172313289577195262010-03-28T19:00:00.000+05:302010-03-28T19:00:51.556+05:30Beach-hopping in Mumbai<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S69RfdE0rBI/AAAAAAAACLM/Qrfm1FBj-8I/s1600/IMG_2663+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 700px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 500px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5453667274591611922" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S69RfdE0rBI/AAAAAAAACLM/Qrfm1FBj-8I/s400/IMG_2663+copy.jpg" /></a> Juhu, Versova, Madh ... 3 of Mumbai's most famous beaches.<br />Geographically so close, yet so far by torturously circuitous road routes.<br />The setting sun's rays gild a spectacular path to Juhu beach, while people on the tip of Versova beach indulge in a game of beach football. Maybe Madh Island in the background is the goal?Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-36565993327121123812010-02-22T16:10:00.001+05:302013-12-15T16:20:36.711+05:30Mumbai : Global Vipassana Pagoda<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S4JWLmfS0sI/AAAAAAAACFM/DfT21ud-oMk/s1600-h/IMG_2538+copy.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5441006057127334594" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S4JWLmfS0sI/AAAAAAAACFM/DfT21ud-oMk/s400/IMG_2538+copy.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 600px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 850px;" /></a> The mangroves of Marve creek form the perfect frame for the golden-hued <a href="http://www.vridhamma.org/The-Grand-Vipassana-Pagoda.aspx">Global Vipassana Pagoda</a> across the waters in Gorai.<br />
At night, it looks almost ethereal... gleaming with soft lights that seem to reflect the stars.<br />
<br />
If the newspapers are excited about it being one of Asia's largest pagodas (325' high), what I find even more fascinating is that in this modern age, here is a massive structure built of <a href="http://www.globalpagoda.org/Default3.aspx?Parentid=3&levelid=51">stone</a> and lime mortar. That's right, no iron or cement used!<br />
<br />
And even more amazing? The <a href="http://www.globalpagoda.org/Default3.aspx?parentid=3&levelid=18">fact</a> that the centre of the pagoda also has the world's largest stone dome built without any supporting pillars.<br />
Imagine meditating under that!<br />
<br />
<em><span style="font-size: 85%;">(Post-script : I just wanted to add this photo of the pagoda taken from the other side of the backwaters, near Gorai)</span> </em><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9JXIxAW07I/AAAAAAAACQM/F2oEcrck9Hg/s1600/IMG_4316+copy.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5463525106059236274" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/S9JXIxAW07I/AAAAAAAACQM/F2oEcrck9Hg/s400/IMG_4316+copy.jpg" style="cursor: hand; display: block; height: 600px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 850px;" /></a>Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-81488723233574832682009-11-09T15:43:00.003+05:302009-11-09T16:19:43.769+05:30Mumbai : Street performers<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfbuRovAwI/AAAAAAAAB7I/M4H3P7ezAWU/s1600-h/IMG_0149+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 510px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 363px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402027866108920578" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfbuRovAwI/AAAAAAAAB7I/M4H3P7ezAWU/s400/IMG_0149+copy.jpg" /></a><br />The streets of Mumbai are one of the most interesting places to people-watch. Contrary to popular belief, it is not lined only with beggars. Performers of every hue and calling display their talents and marketing skills here for a few rupees and heart-warming smiles.<br /><br />I don't know whether I should be calling the Kadak Laxmis street performers or social activists. After all, their livelihood involves taking on the spirit of other people's illnesses onto themselves and whipping themselves till they bleed to get rid of it.<br /><br />I saw this Kadak Laxmi striding purposefully down a road, dressed in the brightest of vivid colours. A blood-red skirt-like <em>lungi</em>, topped by another shorter multi-hued one. Silver discs encircled his arm and a silver belt, his waist. And as he walked, the bells on his anklets chimed a challenge. But the most important part of his attire, the thick rope with which he whips himself was slung oh-so casually over his shoulder. Everything seemed to clash like a tropical storm but it certainly drew attention to him.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Svfb5CxKFXI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/qZiT-2rUbO4/s1600-h/IMG_0151+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 497px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 342px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402028051096278386" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Svfb5CxKFXI/AAAAAAAAB7Q/qZiT-2rUbO4/s400/IMG_0151+copy.jpg" /></a> In sharp contrast, his wife following a good 10 feet behind him, was almost drab. As if carrying a baby in a cloth sling and a drum to set the tone for his performance were nothing out of the ordinary, she balanced a large bundle which seemed to carry all their earthly goods, perfectly on her head.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfdbQfkL6I/AAAAAAAAB7Y/zooxNmS7EJs/s1600-h/IMG_0205+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 476px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 392px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402029738407767970" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfdbQfkL6I/AAAAAAAAB7Y/zooxNmS7EJs/s400/IMG_0205+copy.jpg" /></a> The drum was the accompaniment of choice for another set of performers too but this woman was balancing a small altar with a statue of a deity on her head. She was joined by another girl and a young boy ( I think) wearing a shirt and skirt and carrying the same thick rope used by the Kadak Laxmi. Hardly as dramatic-looking as the older man but maybe he is in training?<br />He didn't seem in the least bit bothered by the prospect of whipping himself but was laughing and chatting with his friends.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfdbgDke3I/AAAAAAAAB7g/paoNalk2mD4/s1600-h/IMG_0212+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 482px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 351px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402029742585314162" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfdbgDke3I/AAAAAAAAB7g/paoNalk2mD4/s400/IMG_0212+copy.jpg" /></a> The first photos in this post are not very clear as the people were quite a distance away. For a truly amazing view, take a look at this photo from Charmayne and David de Souza's book "Itinerants : Mumbai's Nomads". Isn't it fantastic ! And the whole book is crammed with more mind-blowing photos of the very colourful people who make their living off the streets of Mumbai. Go... buy a copy for yourself to feast on. It's more than worth it.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfuVMB8-nI/AAAAAAAAB7o/cb1I8ZaCCBY/s1600-h/daviddesouza-family1.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 292px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5402048325828278898" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SvfuVMB8-nI/AAAAAAAAB7o/cb1I8ZaCCBY/s400/daviddesouza-family1.jpg" /></a><br /><p></p><p>(<em><span style="font-size:85%;">This last photo is from </span></em><a href="http://www.airoots.org/"><em><span style="font-size:85%;">airoots</span></em></a> )</p>Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-19787511272879170022009-09-23T17:36:00.005+05:302009-09-23T17:42:43.141+05:30Mumbai : A link to modernity<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroAb8koQII/AAAAAAAAByQ/VyST2MR30xo/s1600-h/IMG_9614+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 658px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 475px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384616784591077506" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroAb8koQII/AAAAAAAAByQ/VyST2MR30xo/s400/IMG_9614+copy.jpg" /></a> Move over Gateway, the people of Mumbai have found a new icon to identify themselves with.<br />The Worli Sea Link .<br />I know it's been officially named the Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link, a.k.a the Bandra-Worli Sea Link, but everyone I've heard seems to just call it the Worli Sea Link. Let's leave the longer names for politicians, shall we?<br /><br />And now, voices are being heard, asking for a change. It's time to put the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gateway_of_India">Gateway of India </a>out to pasture, they say. That symbol of colonial times has to give way to this proud new tribute to modern India.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroAcgiRi8I/AAAAAAAAByY/jpXNBAcLrDc/s1600-h/IMG_9625+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 410px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 477px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384616794244877250" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroAcgiRi8I/AAAAAAAAByY/jpXNBAcLrDc/s400/IMG_9625+copy.jpg" /></a> Seen at night, the Bandra-Worli Sea Link takes on magical proportions. The network of cables spanning out from the tall towers gleam softly like something out of a fantasy. It is a wondrous thing indeed that such fragile-looking strands can actually hold the whole thing up.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroBr2lFPzI/AAAAAAAAByg/Jy3HyklIhCc/s1600-h/IMG_9637+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 444px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 470px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384618157371899698" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroBr2lFPzI/AAAAAAAAByg/Jy3HyklIhCc/s400/IMG_9637+copy.jpg" /></a> So would I support such a sea change in symbolism?<br />Oh yes! I would... a hundred times over. The Gateway stood for another age, when the strength of India bowed to colonial powers. A stodgy old lady, not quite in touch with anything anymore .<br />The Worli Sea Link is a symbol of the new, rejuvenated, empowered Mumbai. A thing of beauty as well as engineering skill.<br /><br />Plus, if I can see if it from almost 25 kms away, across half the length of this city, it damn well deserves to be the symbol of Mumbai!<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroAbPOBqcI/AAAAAAAAByI/h5rfZrGSAek/s1600-h/IMG_7856.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 449px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 458px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5384616772416678338" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SroAbPOBqcI/AAAAAAAAByI/h5rfZrGSAek/s400/IMG_7856.JPG" /></a> <p></p>Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-17441361972632368242009-09-04T13:07:00.001+05:302010-07-04T01:37:30.984+05:30Ganeshotsav : Mumbai's favourite festival<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEZerpsdiI/AAAAAAAABrQ/iW2FVzEdrtA/s1600-h/IMG_9182.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 412px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 466px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377607444961457698" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEZerpsdiI/AAAAAAAABrQ/iW2FVzEdrtA/s400/IMG_9182.JPG" /></a> It's the morning after, and Mumbai's all danced out.<br />Yesterday was 'Anant Chaturdashi', the culmination of the 10-day long <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ganesh_Chaturthi">festival</a> in honour of Ganesha, the elephant-headed , pot-bellied god. And Mumbai's favourite !<br />For Ganpati or Vinayaka , as he is also known, is the Remover of Obstacles, the Lord of Wisdom and Prosperity. A very powerful combination indeed.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEZdZiS6kI/AAAAAAAABrI/_UX2rmfjx4Q/s1600-h/IMG_9175.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 600px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377607422918715970" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEZdZiS6kI/AAAAAAAABrI/_UX2rmfjx4Q/s400/IMG_9175.JPG" /></a> Idols of Ganesha, made of clay or Plaster of Paris and exquisitely decorated, are installed and worshipped in homes with a lot of <em>pujas</em> and celebration .<br />Modaks, the favourite of Ganesha (and of everyone with a sweet-tooth), are almost always associated with this festival.<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp93HYg7D4I/AAAAAAAABqY/oLhJwsq_bVg/s1600-h/IMG_8982.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 600px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377147448826990466" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp93HYg7D4I/AAAAAAAABqY/oLhJwsq_bVg/s400/IMG_8982.JPG" /></a> It's not just individual homes, whole localities pool in their resources and instal their Ganesha idol for the whole community. These idols are usually massive, and are installed in temporary structures called <em>mandaps</em>, which are ideally located at junctions and other vantage points.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp93GjB1TqI/AAAAAAAABqQ/I6tGIbTbrkc/s1600-h/IMG_8987+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 600px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 378px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377147434469510818" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp93GjB1TqI/AAAAAAAABqQ/I6tGIbTbrkc/s400/IMG_8987+copy.jpg" /></a> The community mandaps are truly a sight to marvel at . Each one has a theme and is lavishly decorated.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp98slZ_lxI/AAAAAAAABrA/gCjLv-Fe85k/s1600-h/IMG_1837.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 566px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377153585500886802" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp98slZ_lxI/AAAAAAAABrA/gCjLv-Fe85k/s400/IMG_1837.JPG" /></a> After 10 days of worship, the idols are taken to a natural water-body, such as a river or sea, for immersion. This is a jubilant procession, filled with music and dancing. Loud, thumping drum-beats and cymbals give dancing feet to even the most lethargic.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp960BzlqdI/AAAAAAAABqg/-CREa8--Z3E/s1600-h/IMG_1741+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 549px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 383px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377151514360261074" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp960BzlqdI/AAAAAAAABqg/-CREa8--Z3E/s400/IMG_1741+copy.jpg" /></a> They take the idols in the back of cars<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp98sPrmQ2I/AAAAAAAABq4/2WjXirPCvG4/s1600-h/IMG_1791+copy+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 560px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 370px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377153579669144418" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp98sPrmQ2I/AAAAAAAABq4/2WjXirPCvG4/s400/IMG_1791+copy+copy.jpg" /></a> or even on carts, but the sentiment and jubilation is the same.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp98rhbuzMI/AAAAAAAABqw/R_OrHLe_duQ/s1600-h/IMG_1836.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 600px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377153567254564034" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp98rhbuzMI/AAAAAAAABqw/R_OrHLe_duQ/s400/IMG_1836.JPG" /></a> Then there are the <a href="http://beta.thehindu.com/news/states/other-states/article15025.ece">community idols</a>... !<em> </em>Huge, ponderous and awe-inspiring , these are carried on beautifully decorated trucks, accompanied by loud music and hundreds of worshippers dancing as if their feet will never tire! <em><br /></em><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEpwODz3DI/AAAAAAAABrg/9vAKe2FTqbw/s1600-h/IMG_9267.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 600px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377625338441620530" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEpwODz3DI/AAAAAAAABrg/9vAKe2FTqbw/s400/IMG_9267.JPG" /></a> Crowds of joyful celebrants dance for miles all the way to the immersion site.<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEpvu7R0UI/AAAAAAAABrY/IlzcJM5GwQM/s1600-h/IMG_9261.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 354px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 421px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377625330084335938" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SqEpvu7R0UI/AAAAAAAABrY/IlzcJM5GwQM/s400/IMG_9261.JPG" /></a> Even heavy rain doesn't dim their enthusiasm one little bit! They only seem to dance even more energetically as they shout "<em>pudchya varsha lavkar ya</em>!" (which translates into "come early next year" ) to their beloved Ganpati Bappa.<br />Ganeshotsav may be celebrated all over India but nowhere with as much fervour as in Mumbai. It is Mumbai's own festival!<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp9601jG-ZI/AAAAAAAABqo/bXvHap5pjx0/s1600-h/IMG_1762.JPG"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 600px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5377151528249784722" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sp9601jG-ZI/AAAAAAAABqo/bXvHap5pjx0/s400/IMG_1762.JPG" /></a><br /><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>Take a look at this collection of </em></span><a href="http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/slideshow/4957478.cms?imw=460"><span style="font-size:85%;"><em>photos</em></span></a><span style="font-size:85%;"><em> from Times of India . </em></span>Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-30507104840557354342009-09-01T19:08:00.004+05:302009-09-01T19:14:06.373+05:30Onam: Festival of abundance<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Spzbp6yG2gI/AAAAAAAABqA/2vbseWBwFRg/s1600-h/IMG00188-20090831-1303+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376413568374069762" border="0" alt="" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Spzbp6yG2gI/AAAAAAAABqA/2vbseWBwFRg/s400/IMG00188-20090831-1303+copy.jpg" /></a>A profusion of flowers. Wrought into the most intricate of designs. It has to be Onam!<br /><br /><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Onam">Onam</a>, the festival dearest to a Keralite's heart, draws to its grand culmination tomorrow.<br />The legend behind it is interesting... a beloved king who is banished from his land, yet granted a boon . To return once every year to check whether his subjects are happy.<br />And for this annual visit, all of Kerala goes into an over-drive of feasting and family bonding .<br />Of friends and games and snake-boat races.<br />Of spruced up, squeaky clean homes, and lavishly decorated yards. For ten days the ladies and girls of the house let their artistic talents flow and the result is the exquisitely beautiful <em><a href="http://images.google.co.in/images?hl=en&um=1&sa=1&q=pookalam&btnG=Search+images&aq=f&oq=&start=0">poo-kalam</a>.</em><br /><em></em><br />'Pookalam' or floral design, is so intrinsically a part of the Onam celebration that it is always a colourful festival. A brilliant splash of happy colour, welcoming every visitor to their home.<br />Petals, blooms and leaves in intricate designs, declaring the patience and artistry of the girls working on them. And obviously, the fun they've been having, decorating the pookalam together.<br />Yellow and deep orange marigolds, pure white jasmine, rich purple Gomphrena globosas, red rose petals, hibiscus, lantana ... these are some of the favourite flowers of choice.<br />Rich, vibrant, colourful, beautiful ... much like the land itself! And the festival it loves the most.<br /><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SpzbpS8ePFI/AAAAAAAABp4/-5ItT5nrb84/s1600-h/IMG00199-20090831-1727+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5376413557680127058" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SpzbpS8ePFI/AAAAAAAABp4/-5ItT5nrb84/s400/IMG00199-20090831-1727+copy.jpg" /></a> <p></p><p><span style="font-size:85%;">( Photos courtesy : George Joseph of </span><a href="http://www.cghearth.com/"><span style="font-size:85%;">CGH Earth </span></a><span style="font-size:85%;">)</span></p>Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-89503520040165724622009-08-17T21:00:00.000+05:302009-08-17T21:00:40.334+05:30Mumbai : Temple on a pavement<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SolwvLXZp3I/AAAAAAAABl0/5fv32ALTijA/s1600-h/IMG_8595+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370947986423129970" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SolwvLXZp3I/AAAAAAAABl0/5fv32ALTijA/s400/IMG_8595+copy.jpg" /></a> Where else but in Mumbai would you see a temple on the pavement of a busy road and the faithful lining up for prayers in the middle of screeching traffic which weaves around them as they stand oblivious to everything else !<br /><br /><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370947973584153522" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SolwubiWa7I/AAAAAAAABls/We8hLB6lA_c/s400/IMG_8591+copy.jpg" /> I saw this tiny, very colourful temple as I was driving by the other day and was fascinated by the numerous statues of deities on its roof .<br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Solwt3PIVpI/AAAAAAAABlk/CSnze2C00xA/s1600-h/IMG_8588+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 400px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 300px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370947963839862418" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Solwt3PIVpI/AAAAAAAABlk/CSnze2C00xA/s400/IMG_8588+copy.jpg" /></a> From a board which I read later in a photo, I found out that this temple is called the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mariamman">Mariamman </a>Temple.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sol0JmwkjWI/AAAAAAAABl8/tQV4pJ0Ugaw/s1600-h/IMG_8594+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 300px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370951738987941218" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Sol0JmwkjWI/AAAAAAAABl8/tQV4pJ0Ugaw/s400/IMG_8594+copy.jpg" /></a>I spent a long time staring at the work on the roof and kept finding new things that delighted me. Like that peacock and the duck on the arch . And isn't it just such a vibrant explosion of colour?<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SolwtQWUQ1I/AAAAAAAABlc/MFT15ilB8EU/s1600-h/IMG_8587+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 336px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 400px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5370947953401021266" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SolwtQWUQ1I/AAAAAAAABlc/MFT15ilB8EU/s400/IMG_8587+copy.jpg" /></a>Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-8928600799008153812009-08-05T17:51:00.008+05:302009-08-05T18:18:31.715+05:30Varkala : Street Art<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Snl52tX8_BI/AAAAAAAABg4/3To3I5J94r4/s1600-h/IMG_6253+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 515px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 425px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5366454411788614674" border="0" alt="" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/Snl52tX8_BI/AAAAAAAABg4/3To3I5J94r4/s400/IMG_6253+copy.jpg" /></a><br />The unsung artist finds expression on a wall along narrow Varkala roads. Unknown, but definitely not unappreciated!<br />The unexpected blaze of colour burns through the predominant green of foliage and white of white-washed houses.<br />Blue sings the hue of Krishna ... or is that Ram with his brother Lakshman?<br />As lovingly detailed as its surroundings are crudely unfinished ... did the artist's soul find this blank canvas irresistible and take it on himself to fill this void ?Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-88873304937976216082009-08-03T21:04:00.003+05:302009-08-03T21:18:00.506+05:30Kovalam : A time to muse<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SncALcGMaTI/AAAAAAAABgw/9pCzcl37_6M/s1600-h/IMG_6690+a+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 593px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 477px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365757677555968306" border="0" alt="" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SncALcGMaTI/AAAAAAAABgw/9pCzcl37_6M/s400/IMG_6690+a+copy.jpg" /></a> Sunset on Kovalam beach.<br />As the sun slips through a rosy haze, fishing boats sleepily watch from their soft beach beds. All covered up with braided palm-leaf blankets , tucked in and safe for the night.<br />The sun-worshippers have rolled up their mats and gone home.<br />The waves hush their crashing roar and a cool breeze steals in .<br />It's a time to pause and muse awhile. A time to feel at one with the universe.Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6265356640972110099.post-71522355202154615722009-08-02T07:17:00.001+05:302009-08-02T21:12:57.110+05:30Goa : Awaiting the Monsoon<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SnWM-BhlofI/AAAAAAAABgg/c9BxlawhVyI/s1600-h/IMG_0408+a+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 489px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 328px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5365349528270905842" border="0" alt="" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/__wsJH6HEJAA/SnWM-BhlofI/AAAAAAAABgg/c9BxlawhVyI/s400/IMG_0408+a+copy.jpg" /></a> Driving down country roads in Goa...<br />No beaches to distract me, only miles and miles of green. Paddy fields fringed with coconut palms, lie waiting for the touch of the monsoon . Quaint, white-washed homes wink by in a flash but stay imprinted in my memory.Sunita Mohan http://www.blogger.com/profile/16395671437601246093noreply@blogger.com2