Mumbai : The colours of Summer

Nothing ... absolutely nothing ... paints the vibrant colours of Summer in Mumbai even a fraction as much as ... golas!
Hard-packed globes of crushed ice wrapped around a stick, lollipop-style. But it doesn't stop there .... dipped in a glass of flavoured sweet syrup spiced with rather mysterious masalas, it transforms into the stuff of dreams. Dreams of frozen icy cool on a miserably boiling hot day. Of sticky, sugary flavours to be slurped up, tantalising the tastebuds and teasing the memory cells.

And the colours! Lurid, ravishing, vibrant ... golden mango, explosive orange, sunny pineapple, grape, kaalakhatta.... definitely more flavours than fruit trees could dream up .

But it is not for the squeamish or the faint-hearted. Being a transplant to Mumbai, I always found the rather dubious antecedents of the gola a bit of a restraint every time I was tempted to try one.

I found a long line of gola-wallahs busy at work on their carts on Marve Beach the other night. Don't you just love the way those bottles glow like jewels in the warm light of the lanterns ?
The colours fascinated, the icy coolness lured, but I resisted its charms. My Mumbai-bred husband shook his head at my stubborness and proceeded to gorge on frozen golas, leaving me melting in the summer heat.

Amazing how such a rickety contraption as a hand-cart, a manual ice-crusher and a super-model line-up of syrups and spices can transform into a superhero for so many Mumbai folk!

Then the other day we were driving down Linking Road, sweltering in the blistering heat with the sun snickering at the a.c. which was on full blast but might as well have not been functioning for all the good it did.
Many sweaty miserable minutes later,my husband stopped at an all-too familiar stall. And this one time, I was tempted once too often. And I gave in!

What can I say? It was like the monsoons had come early... in a sweet orangey flavour speckled with rock salt and chaat masala!


(At the time of publishing, the writer is still alive and not suffering any ill-effects after having eaten a gola. But the writer refuses to accept any responsibility for the same if the reader is tempted to have one too ;D )

Beach-hopping in Mumbai

Juhu, Versova, Madh ... 3 of Mumbai's most famous beaches.
Geographically so close, yet so far by torturously circuitous road routes.
The setting sun's rays gild a spectacular path to Juhu beach, while people on the tip of Versova beach indulge in a game of beach football. Maybe Madh Island in the background is the goal?

Mumbai : Global Vipassana Pagoda

The mangroves of Marve creek form the perfect frame for the golden-hued Global Vipassana Pagoda across the waters in Gorai.
At night, it looks almost ethereal... gleaming with soft lights that seem to reflect the stars.

If the newspapers are excited about it being one of Asia's largest pagodas (325' high), what I find even more fascinating is that in this modern age, here is a massive structure built of stone and lime mortar. That's right, no iron or cement used!

And even more amazing? The fact that the centre of the pagoda also has the world's largest stone dome built without any supporting pillars.
Imagine meditating under that!

(Post-script : I just wanted to add this photo of the pagoda taken from the other side of the backwaters, near Gorai)

Mumbai : Street performers

The streets of Mumbai are one of the most interesting places to people-watch. Contrary to popular belief, it is not lined only with beggars. Performers of every hue and calling display their talents and marketing skills here for a few rupees and heart-warming smiles.

I don't know whether I should be calling the Kadak Laxmis street performers or social activists. After all, their livelihood involves taking on the spirit of other people's illnesses onto themselves and whipping themselves till they bleed to get rid of it.

I saw this Kadak Laxmi striding purposefully down a road, dressed in the brightest of vivid colours. A blood-red skirt-like lungi, topped by another shorter multi-hued one. Silver discs encircled his arm and a silver belt, his waist. And as he walked, the bells on his anklets chimed a challenge. But the most important part of his attire, the thick rope with which he whips himself was slung oh-so casually over his shoulder. Everything seemed to clash like a tropical storm but it certainly drew attention to him.

In sharp contrast, his wife following a good 10 feet behind him, was almost drab. As if carrying a baby in a cloth sling and a drum to set the tone for his performance were nothing out of the ordinary, she balanced a large bundle which seemed to carry all their earthly goods, perfectly on her head.

The drum was the accompaniment of choice for another set of performers too but this woman was balancing a small altar with a statue of a deity on her head. She was joined by another girl and a young boy ( I think) wearing a shirt and skirt and carrying the same thick rope used by the Kadak Laxmi. Hardly as dramatic-looking as the older man but maybe he is in training?
He didn't seem in the least bit bothered by the prospect of whipping himself but was laughing and chatting with his friends.

The first photos in this post are not very clear as the people were quite a distance away. For a truly amazing view, take a look at this photo from Charmayne and David de Souza's book "Itinerants : Mumbai's Nomads". Isn't it fantastic ! And the whole book is crammed with more mind-blowing photos of the very colourful people who make their living off the streets of Mumbai. Go... buy a copy for yourself to feast on. It's more than worth it.

(This last photo is from airoots )

Mumbai : A link to modernity

Move over Gateway, the people of Mumbai have found a new icon to identify themselves with.
The Worli Sea Link .
I know it's been officially named the Rajiv Gandhi Sea Link, a.k.a the Bandra-Worli Sea Link, but everyone I've heard seems to just call it the Worli Sea Link. Let's leave the longer names for politicians, shall we?

And now, voices are being heard, asking for a change. It's time to put the Gateway of India out to pasture, they say. That symbol of colonial times has to give way to this proud new tribute to modern India.

Seen at night, the Bandra-Worli Sea Link takes on magical proportions. The network of cables spanning out from the tall towers gleam softly like something out of a fantasy. It is a wondrous thing indeed that such fragile-looking strands can actually hold the whole thing up.

So would I support such a sea change in symbolism?
Oh yes! I would... a hundred times over. The Gateway stood for another age, when the strength of India bowed to colonial powers. A stodgy old lady, not quite in touch with anything anymore .
The Worli Sea Link is a symbol of the new, rejuvenated, empowered Mumbai. A thing of beauty as well as engineering skill.

Plus, if I can see if it from almost 25 kms away, across half the length of this city, it damn well deserves to be the symbol of Mumbai!

Ganeshotsav : Mumbai's favourite festival

It's the morning after, and Mumbai's all danced out.
Yesterday was 'Anant Chaturdashi', the culmination of the 10-day long festival in honour of Ganesha, the elephant-headed , pot-bellied god. And Mumbai's favourite !
For Ganpati or Vinayaka , as he is also known, is the Remover of Obstacles, the Lord of Wisdom and Prosperity. A very powerful combination indeed.

Idols of Ganesha, made of clay or Plaster of Paris and exquisitely decorated, are installed and worshipped in homes with a lot of pujas and celebration .
Modaks, the favourite of Ganesha (and of everyone with a sweet-tooth), are almost always associated with this festival.
It's not just individual homes, whole localities pool in their resources and instal their Ganesha idol for the whole community. These idols are usually massive, and are installed in temporary structures called mandaps, which are ideally located at junctions and other vantage points.

The community mandaps are truly a sight to marvel at . Each one has a theme and is lavishly decorated.

After 10 days of worship, the idols are taken to a natural water-body, such as a river or sea, for immersion. This is a jubilant procession, filled with music and dancing. Loud, thumping drum-beats and cymbals give dancing feet to even the most lethargic.

They take the idols in the back of cars

or even on carts, but the sentiment and jubilation is the same.

Then there are the community idols... ! Huge, ponderous and awe-inspiring , these are carried on beautifully decorated trucks, accompanied by loud music and hundreds of worshippers dancing as if their feet will never tire!

Crowds of joyful celebrants dance for miles all the way to the immersion site.

Even heavy rain doesn't dim their enthusiasm one little bit! They only seem to dance even more energetically as they shout "pudchya varsha lavkar ya!" (which translates into "come early next year" ) to their beloved Ganpati Bappa.
Ganeshotsav may be celebrated all over India but nowhere with as much fervour as in Mumbai. It is Mumbai's own festival!


Take a look at this collection of photos from Times of India .

Onam: Festival of abundance

A profusion of flowers. Wrought into the most intricate of designs. It has to be Onam!

Onam, the festival dearest to a Keralite's heart, draws to its grand culmination tomorrow.
The legend behind it is interesting... a beloved king who is banished from his land, yet granted a boon . To return once every year to check whether his subjects are happy.
And for this annual visit, all of Kerala goes into an over-drive of feasting and family bonding .
Of friends and games and snake-boat races.
Of spruced up, squeaky clean homes, and lavishly decorated yards. For ten days the ladies and girls of the house let their artistic talents flow and the result is the exquisitely beautiful poo-kalam.

'Pookalam' or floral design, is so intrinsically a part of the Onam celebration that it is always a colourful festival. A brilliant splash of happy colour, welcoming every visitor to their home.
Petals, blooms and leaves in intricate designs, declaring the patience and artistry of the girls working on them. And obviously, the fun they've been having, decorating the pookalam together.
Yellow and deep orange marigolds, pure white jasmine, rich purple Gomphrena globosas, red rose petals, hibiscus, lantana ... these are some of the favourite flowers of choice.
Rich, vibrant, colourful, beautiful ... much like the land itself! And the festival it loves the most.

( Photos courtesy : George Joseph of CGH Earth )